In the space that was once housed cocktail bar Kokomo’s, Wilma is a fire-powered restaurant drawing inspiration from the diverse cuisines of Southeast Asia and China.
There’s room for 200 diners, with a moody colour palette of blacks and greys. It’s all carefully balanced with tan leather banquettes and warm lighting reminiscent of the fires in the kitchen, where a team of chefs barbeque various beasts and vegetables as primitively as possible.
At the raw bar, you can sit and watch the chefs slice sashimi and shuck oysters, and prepare small snacks such as san choy bow, prawn toast and a house take on the sausage sanga with Bulldog sauce.
Elsewhere on the menu, you’ll find wok-fried dishes including Balmain bug with egg noodles, mapo tofu with sizzling Sichuan shiitake mushrooms and XO pippies tossed with a sauce made with leftover fish frames. Native Australian ingredients such as Warrigal greens and Davidson’s plum feature heavily, alongside local produce such as ducks from nearby Tarago and Majura truffles.
If you’re not in the mood for a full dinner, visit adjoining bar The Pearl for cocktails flavoured with Asian ingredients such as the yuzu spritz, Osaka Old-Fashioned or a Lychee Dragonfruit Margarita. A tight selection of snacks by Wilma is served here.